Art Deco at its Finest
Birthday Celebration!
Hudson Valley Fois Gras
Pomegranate, Citrus Foam and Funnel Cake
Heirloom Cauliflower
Radish, Mullet Bottarga, Preserved Lemon and Caper Vinaigrette
One cannot mention Orchids at Palm Court without commenting on the incredible art deco surroundings, comparable to Radio City Music Hall or Rockefeller Center. Take the time to absorb the fine details that surround you. Orchid is located in the Carew Tower as part of the Hilton Netherland Plaza Hotel at 35 W. 5th St , Cincinnati, Ohio, which is on the National Historic Register and is a National Landmark.
Our dining experience was definitely a "mixed bag". The first selection of wine was not in stock; neither was the second. Not a good way to start a birthday celebration. We are not big eaters, but like to experience different dishes. There is a good variation of appetizers, so we decided to order several to share. Often we will have an appetizer and one entree to split. Our server seemed genuinely surprised that we wanted to do this.
The amuse bouche (gift from the chef) was wonderful. Served in an egg shell, a sublime combination of egg, creme fraiche, chives and bacon was just yummy! The sweetbreads (no this is not a dessert, if you don't know what they are, don't ask) was accompanied with a vanilla carrot puree which overpowered the delicate taste of the meat. Next came the spring rabbit which, quite frankly, was a bit dry but tasty when eaten with the ramp peperonata. We were politely asked during each course if everything was to our liking- oops, we just as politely told them! The Chef then sent out the heirloom cauliflower which we did not order. It was a masterful blend of flavors. The tartness of the preserved lemon played off the saltiness of the microplaned mullet eggs and the cauliflower was a perfect backdrop. Our last course was again confusing. The fois gras was slightly overdone and served atop a funnel cake . The dish just didn't come together.
I must say the service was impeccable and restaurants no longer go to this amount of detail any more. Yes, we will return, as this is a wonderful and unique overall experience and everyone has an "off" day. There is a bar section in the Palm Court, and for a cocktail or after dinner libation, it is one of our favorite places.
At the far end of the hotel lobby is a small brochure "Walking Tour & Pocket History" of the Netherland Plaza. I would encourage readers to find this, as the history and tour are such a part of the Orchids. For reservations call: 513- 421-9100.